Many years ago, Nok-Out and I met completely by accident. We found one another in my desperate search for ways my readers could deal with extremely offensive odors. I’ve used Nok-Out continuously in my home and business since then and have recommended it to readers facing serious and potentially expensive odor issues.
DEAR MARY: Recently you gave the tip of diluting Nok-Out in a 1:4 ratio with water. I had always wondered if you could do that but didn’t want to waste the valuable product testing it only to find out it needs to be used full strength. I had some clothes that had a terrible odor no matter how many times I washed them. I was to the point of having to throw them away as they were not wearable in that smelly state. I diluted the Nok-Out as you said, soaked the clothes in this solution, wrung them out, and then washed as usual. It worked! Nok-Out saved my clothes. The odor is completely gone. This product is so worth the money. Loyal reader, Robyn
DEAR ROBYN: Great news! Nok-Out is so highly concentrated, diluted 1:4 it remains highly effective. There are times you can dilute it even more. And then there are rare times you really need to use it full strength. Read on ….
DEAR MARY: How can I fix carpet that has bleach spots on it? I tried using fabric pens about the same color as the tan carpet but the spots turned orange! Carol
DEAR CAROL: Bleach means done deal. There is no way you can “un-bleach” those spots. If you have a piece of spare carpet left over from when the carpet was installed, you can cut out the stained carpet and replace it with a patch from the new piece. If you don’t have that, cut the patch out of an inconspicuous area, like the back of a closet. Stick double-sided carpet tape onto the floor (or the pad if there is one) and press the patch into place. Because carpet has “nap,” done well the patch will be seamless and totally undetectable. If you are uncomfortable doing this yourself, call a local carpet repair expert. It should not be costly if you have the carpet piece ready to go. Good luck!
DEAR MARY: I can’t afford to replace my 50-year old light oak cupboards. They are still in good condition but look dull. Can you recommend a product that will clean and/or revitalize them? I ordered the Cosmas hardware you recommended and love them. (Cosmas makes a great oil rubbed bronze cabinet round knob for as little a $1.15 per knob in a pack of 25 -mh.) Thanks for all the products and tips you share with us. Judy
DEAR JUDY: I think you will be thrilled to pieces with your classic cabinets once you deep clean them with Howards Feed-N-Wax Orange Oil Polish and Conditioner (about $8 for 16 oz.). Even if you need two or three bottles of this product, your cabinets are going to shine like a new penny! Howards contains beeswax and orange oil that replenish the oils in finished and oiled wood. I’m predicting that Howards plus Cosmas equals a big “Wow!” in your kitchen.
DEAR MARY: I was wondering if you had a quick and easy way to keep the dish scrubbers (like the ones that have a sponge on one side attached to a pad for scrubbing pans on the other side) from smelling like mildew.
Ours do fine for a few days and then start smelling. I try to run them in the dishwasher, but don’t always remember. I sometimes spray them with bleach and let them sit for a minute or two before rinsing, and that seems to work, but I was wondering if there was a better way. I tried microwaving a wet sponge, and that just created a hot smelly sponge. Bronson
DEAR BRONSON: Putting kitchen sponges in the dishwasher daily, or as often as you run a load of dishes, is the best solution to this problem. The heat and detergent kill bacteria and mildew. I’m going to assume that you use one sponge at a time, and that may be the problem. Let me suggest you have at least two sponges going. This way, one will always be available to wipe the counter and so forth, while the other is getting sanitized in the dishwasher. Do this without fail for a couple of weeks and soon it’ll become a habit. Hope that helps!
I just received an email message from one of my readers that stirred up some very poignant memories for me.
For years I, like Carol, was on the fake acrylic nails bandwagon. From the first time I gave that manicure option a try, I loved it. Polish lasts longer on acrylic nails; my nails were always uniform—shaped perfectly and just the right length. All I had to do was go to the nail salon every three weeks to have them maintained.
The problem is it became addictive. I couldn’t do the maintenance myself. And if I didn’t go regularly to have them done, they looked horrible. I became a slave to my local nail salon and acrylic-applying nail technician. It was not cheap.
Anyone who’s ever had acrylic nails knows that they absolutely ravage your natural nails if removed incorrectly, or worn for years without taking a break. And no wonder. Part of the process is to sand down one’s natural nails to get the stuff to stick and not “lift” before the next appointment.
It was a difficult habit to break and I’m glad I did, not only for my nail health (Google “acrylic dangers” if you dare) but even more so for my wealth. Here’s what Carol wrote:
DEAR MARY: Is there anything that will take Crystal Light fruit punch stain out of beige carpeting? It has been on there a while and appears to have dyed the carpeting. Thanks. Mary C.
DEAR MARY C.: This is going to be tough because of the red color—and the reason I never serve red beverages in my home, especially at a party. It’s the red dye that stains so easily. Even red wine can be problematic on carpet unless it is dealt with immediately.
I do not in any way suggest you should not try to get this stain out! I think there’s a very good chance you can at least lighten that stain, if not remove it completely. My best suggestion is to get a can of Spot Shot. Shake that can well, saturate the stain and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Then using a clean white cloth (you do not want to transfer any other colors to this stained area by way of a colored cloth) work that stain out as best you can.
My favorite method using Spot Shot is to spray the spot, then lay the cloth on top of it. Now make sure you’re wearing shoes and use your foot to dig into that cloth and stain just as you would if you were doing “The Twist!” You’ll be blotting and scrubbing that stain at the same time. You’re in luck if you see any of that red color transferring to the cloth. You may have to repeat several times. Spot Shot is the best carpet spotter I know of. Every household with carpeting needs a can of Spot Shot available at all times.
I have the most prolific mailbox in the universe—I’m sure of it. Just today I was responding to messages I received nearly a year ago, not that I can possibly respond personally to every message. But I do read all of them. Never forget this: You are the best part of what I do here—you make it all worthwhile.
DEAR MARY: Is there a way that I can remove a blood stain from my black and white floral Hawaiian print car seat slipcover? I hope I can do this without removing the slipcover, which was a bear to put on. Thanks for your help and your wonderful tips and columns. Leslie
DEAR LESLIE: The best thing I know to remove blood even if the stain is very old, is Soilove Laundry Soil-Stain Remover. It is enzymatic, which means it attacks proteins, of which blood is one. You can get Soilove at 99 Cents Only Stores in California and Arizona; you can also get it online or directly from the manufacturer by calling 1-800-482-6555 M-F, Pacific time.
I can help you with that problem of getting well-fitting slipcovers back on after laundering: Put them on wet. They will stretch more easily and that will take all the struggle out of the process. And they will dry beautifully. I have a large white sofa with slipcovers. When I bought it the saleslady gave me that tip and I am so grateful she did. I wash those slipcovers so often you would be amazed— in the washing machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then I skip the dryer altogether and on they go and so easily, too. I smooth out the wrinkles with my hands and let them dry in place.
DEAR MARY: First off, let me tell you I’m a huge fan. I save almost every email, tip I need or think I will in a Cheapskate folder on my computer. My question: Can I straighten out a warped cast iron skillet? It’s eons old, belonged to my mother-in-law; she always cooked her holiday hams in it. I still do, but don’t like that it’s not flat. Any thoughts? Brenda
A mid-west sewer authority did a study and came up with data suggesting that 19 percent of people admit to having dropped their phones in the toilet. I’m not sure why this fact would be of interest to a sewer agency, but it did come to mind when this letter washed up on my desk a week or two ago.
DEAR MARY: A week ago, I dropped my smart phone in the toilet. I tried to rescue it but had to get a new phone. The salesman said every day, someone comes in with the same problem. Now I’m wondering if there is some kind of waterproof case I can get to protect it in case this happens again. And, by the way, how do you fix a wet phone? My method (I immediately cleaned it, took it apart and then stuck it in a bag of rice to dry out) didn’t work. Bev
DEAR BEV: There are steps you can take to try to rescue a waterlogged mobile phone, but there are no guarantees.
DEAR MARY: I have been making and using your concentrated laundry detergent for several years now and love saving money with it. But sometimes I end up with white chunky solids at the bottom of the container. Am I doing something wrong? Jean
DEAR JEAN: This “crystalization” that forms after awhile is perfectly normal and harmless. I usually go through a gallon of this concentrate so fast, that doesn’t have a chance to happen. But when it does, I use it up just as if it were still fully liquified. No harm, no foul. I find that if I shake it well each time I use it, the crystallization is less pronounced. If this is a huge problem for you, you could easily halve the recipe to make 1/2 gallon of liquid laundry detergent concentrate at a time.
And now, even though you did not ask but because others will, our homemade laundry detergent is HE compliant, meaning suitable for use in high-efficiency (HE) washing machines. It is completely sudsless which is required for use in low water volume machines, provided you are using a very small amount—2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup maximum. Remember it is highly concentrated.
DEAR MARY: I was totally shocked to read in your recent post, Cast Iron Skillets Making a Healthy Comeback, that the best oil to use to season a cast iron skillet is flaxseed oil. Flaxseed oil has a smoke point of 225 F, after which the oil begins to produce harmful free radicals. What is author Ellen Brown’s reasoning for using flax seed oil? Debbie